Location: Situated on the southeast shore of Prince William Sound in southcentral Alaska. There is Alaska Marine Highway service between Valdez, Cordova and Whittier, and 30-minute daily jet service from Anchorage. Population: 2585. Visitor Information: Cordova Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center, 404 First Street; Phone: (907) 424-7260; Website: www.cordovachamber.com.
If you are looking for an authentic Alaskan experience, Cordova is a community immersed in the culture of the outdoors and known for its breathtaking scenery and friendly, colorful residents. Commercial fishing is the lifeblood of Cordova with nearly every family benefiting from the world-famous Copper River Salmon fishery. Hike some of the best maintained USFS trails in the state or experience one of Cordova’s many homegrown festivals. Glacier, rain forest, wetland and ocean adventures await you in this quaint fishing village situated at the base of the Chugach Mountains, along the eastern shores of Prince William Sound and the Copper River Delta. Cordova’s rustic charm can transport visitors back in time to the rural America of the mid-twentieth century and is a must-see destination on any Alaska vacation.
Modern-day Cordova owes its origin to Michael J. Heney, builder of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. The town was chosen as the railroad terminus and ocean-shipping port for copper ore transported by rail from the Kennicott mines near Kennicott and McCarthy. The railroad and town prospered until 1938 when the mine closed. Following the end of copper mining activity, seafood became the area’s major economic base. Cordova was considered the “Razor Clam Capitol of the World” until the legendary 1964 Earthquake, which exposed their beds. But resilient Cordova switched gears and focused on herring. That fishery flourished until the infamous Exxon Valdez oil spill in 1989 decimated the region. But Cordova survived and today their fishery is more successful than ever. Its world-renowned Copper River salmon is prized for its richness and flavor with a high concentration of heart-healthy Omega 3 fatty acids, and celebrated for the well-managed and sustainable oversight that keeps the population healthy.
The scenic harbor is full of fishing boats, such as the small flat-bottomed gillnet boats, well suited for the silt laden shallow waters at the mouth of the Copper River. The larger seine boats are set up for plying the waters of Prince William Sound for salmon. Even larger, the tenders proudly display the banners of the fish processing plants for which they are buying. It is common to see fishermen on the docks mending their nets or tenders tied alongside one of the many processing plants adjacent to Cordova’s harbor where they offload fishermen’s catches.
Locally owned and operated flight charter companies can take you soaring above the delta in charter planes and helicopters. Hunting, fishing and outdoor adventure charters can guide you to the Cordova area’s secret places. Combination jet boat/ATV operators can escort you to the Million Dollar Bridge and Childs Glacier.
Although erosion has at least temporarily limited road access for the last quarter of the trip, the drive along the Copper River Highway heading east from downtown Cordova through the river delta is considered one of Alaska’s most scenic. The highway passes through a spectacular landscape of rugged mountains and glaciers, icy blue ponds and fishing streams, where the short side road to Sheridan Glacier at mile 13 is a must do. The road used to terminate at the Childs Glacier Recreation Area, a popular hiking and sightseeing spot where the impressive 350’ glacier meets the Copper River. A washout at Bridge 339 has made the 49-mile road impassible from Mile 36 on, but tour operators are available to shuttle visitors to the Childs Glacier and Million Dollar Bridge area via airboat and plane. It is not uncommon to see Child’s Glacier actively “calve” house-sized chunks of ice into the river with a thunderous roar. Wildlife such as black bear, moose, beaver, mountain goats, trumpeter swans and numerous other species of birds can be observed along the road. The historic Million Dollar Bridge lies in the same vicinity.
Completed in 1910 at a cost of 1.4 million dollars, the remote location of the bridge, its impressive 1600-foot length and cantilevered design made it an engineering marvel of its time. The bridge was originally constructed as part of the 196-mile railroad system built by J.P. Morgan and the Guggenheim family to transport $200 million worth of copper ore from the Kennicott mine to the port of Cordova, for shipping to Tacoma, Washington. The mine closed in 1938 and work began in the 1950s to convert the old railbed to a roadway.
During the 1964 Good Friday earthquake, the northernmost span collapsed into the Copper River, halting further development of the Copper River Highway and creating one of Cordova’s most photographed attractions. Flooding in 1995 raised the possibility that the earthquake damaged bridge would ultimately collapse into the river, depositing debris on Miles Glacier and harming the Copper River salmon run. State engineers determined that even with a $19 million price tag, it would be far less costly to repair the bridge than to remove it or clean up after a more serious collapse.
The mammoth undertaking of stabilizing and repairing the bridge began in the fall of 2003. Work crews labored year-round through the winter for two years under some of the most severe conditions in the world. Steel workers spent long hours suspended over the icy waters of the Copper River for most of this time. The work entailed raising Span Four of the Bridge out of the river and replacing the damaged and missing structural steel members on both Span Three and Span Four. The existing unstable Pier three was demolished and replaced with a new pier similar in shape and color to Piers One and Two.
In the summer of 2005, Alaska Governor Murkowski led the ribbon cutting ceremony marking the complete restoration of the bridge, which was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2000. With the collapsed span firmly back in place on new concrete piers, the restored crossing benefited residents and visitors who could then further explore the beauty and majesty of this scenic location.
The Forest Service maintains a series of trails for hiking through the varied habitats, from trails leading to the Sheridan Glacier, one of the few glaciers that you can actually hike on, to McKinley Lake for fall berry picking and salmon fishing, or to Crater Lake for a mountaintop view of Prince William Sound to the west and the Copper River Delta to the east.
Enjoy the sights and sounds of the Cordova Walking Tour, prepared by the Cordova Historical Society, which points out historic structures throughout the town. Observe the life of the Cordova fishermen as you tour the harbor area and watch the process involved in delivering the bounty of the sea from the boat to your table. Cordova also offers cross country and downhill skiing, sea kayaking, canoeing, ice skating, hunting, flight seeing, birding and mountain biking.
View one of only five complete killer whale skeletons in the world at the Ilanka Cultural Center. In a twist of fate, a whale named Eyak died on the shore of Hartney Bay on July 11, 2000 just a few miles from Cordova. Members of the Native Village of Eyak and the Prince William Sound Science Center began a partnership to resurrect Eyak (or the skeleton at least) in the name of science. Dozens of volunteers worked on the project and it is now complete. Don’t miss seeing this amazing representation of marine mammal life.
Cordova provides accommodations to fit every visitor’s need with a wide choice of hotels, motels, bed & breakfasts. Restaurants offer savory local cuisine like Copper River salmon, halibut and other fresh seafood.
Located a short walk from the waterfront, the impressive new 33,000 square foot Cordova Center is a state of the art meeting facility, housing the Historical Museum, Copper River Art Gallery, performing arts theater, lecture halls, library and City Hall. Displays tell of early explorers to the area, the Native culture, Copper River Northwestern Railway/Kennicott Mine era, and the growth of the commercial fishing industry. A small gift shop featuring books of local interest and other items is operated by the Cordova Historical Society, which also sponsors monthly evening programs.
Activities Near Cordova:
Cape St. Elias Light House
For a novel type of camping, try out the Cape St. Elias light station. The best way to get there is by flying with a charter company from Cordova. Lodging at the Cape is rustic, with no electricity or running water.
Orca Cannery - Orca Adventure Lodge
Located on the eastern shores of Prince William Sound just two miles north of Cordova, the Orca Cannery complex consists of 28 buildings, structures and features built for commercial fish processing, fifteen of which date from 1910 to 1945 and meet the eligibility criteria for National Register of Historic Places as contributing properties of a historic district.
A cannery town originally built in the 1880s, Orca has recently been rebuilt into Alaska’s finest adventure destination. While retaining its historical flavor, Orca Adventure Lodge has full amenities to offer the most discerning guest. Each of the thirty-four rooms has great ocean views. The chef and crew cook up delectable delights in the cannery cookhouse next door, while great guides offer unique and safe excursions into the wilds of Alaska.
Behind the facility, you can look up into the trees and watch nesting bald eagles or wander the beach to see resident sea otters play or join the camaraderie of the game room. Exciting activities await: skiing, hiking, wildlife photography, boating, ocean kayaking, sport fishing, flight seeing and more. Airport and town shuttle are available.
